On my visit, I gorged on morcilla (blood sausage) sandwiches and cod fritters served with "crack" ketchup (lifted by cilantro and slow-cooked garlic), along with gulps of crab funche, a grits-like stew, and crunches of chicharrón (fried pig skin) with citrus horseradish gremolata. I scribbled a note at dinner: "Bacoa puts the epic in epicurean."