At night, rows of bright lights on the bagans illuminate the water below to attract fish, shrimp and plankton to the fishing nets. However, it was now 06:30 and the lights were dimmed and the nets raised. We approached one of the biggest bagans. As we docked by its side, Indra spoke with the operator, asking permission for us to dive beneath it. A Bugis fisherman named Aching immediately welcomed us on board.