Her food also features many subtle nods to local classics. Lacón con grelos is the kind of rustic fare that has warmed Galician farmers for centuries during the region"s damp, piercing winters; typically, it is a hearty stew of dry cured ham and mustard greens with boiled potatoes, but Freitas reimagines it as a mini-snack of thinly shredded dried pork that she fries into a nest-like shape and serves atop a crisp sheet of fried kale.