And it is turning to what other practices – of organising communities, of exchanging skills and of making clothing – may have to offer as alternatives to the hyper-industrial, hegemonic Western fashion industry. "The Black Lives Matter [movement has led to a] mass realignment and re-education, and an understanding of how our colonial past and empire-building was built on the exploitation of people and theft of indigenous land and resources," says Blanchard. "There"s a new awareness of cultural imbalances and the inequalities within the fashion industry, where a thousand-pound dress has been made by garment workers who are not paid a living wage, or where a motif has been taken from a community"s cultural textile heritage without permission."