Most farmers, though, sell what they can"t eat themselves at the Tira de Comptar, a wholesale market that is almost as old as the Tribunal de Aguas; or to Folgado and the other fruit and vegetable sellers in the Mercado Central, unfailingly furnishing their stalls with spongy heads of broccoli, waxy red peppers and fat garlic bulbs. And horseshoe-shaped ferraura beans – a bright green colour, but not too intense.